9/13/2023 0 Comments Flynn rider vest tutorialThis too curves, wider at near the armhole and thinner towards the mid-body edge. One is the sewing line and the other is another top stitching line. On the left side, but not the armhole, are two additional lines. It's more work so it's up to you if you want to curve the decorative stitching. The ruler is on the first straight line, the black lines are curved. Looking closely at the pattern you'll see the first lines were straight but in the real jacket they are actually curved. I'll also put a layer of flannel between the top piece and the front piece underneath so the decorative stitching will have more to define. To give the front a 3 dimensional look I decided to make an extra chest overlay. Need more information? A better explanation? Just let me know with a comment and I'll do my best to clarify. Look closely and you'll see the bottom line narrows as it goes toward the center. You'll notice the overlay does not extend to the front edge, this is okay, it will be part of a turned under edge where I did not want the extra fabric. (Note 4 is a gathering stitch on my machine, 2 is the normal setting.) I chose 3. The sample to the left shows the look of the different the stitch lengths. At the beginning leave a long thread to pull through and tie off or stitch a couple of stitches at "0". Start at the armhole edge and work to the center front. Top stitch the diagonal edge at the bottom of the overlay then work you way up. I did not press the front because I wanted the rounded look at the lower edge but this would be the point at which you could.Īfter you match the shoulder pin. Pull overlay up and pin at shoulder seams. Not show is the clipping of the outside curving edge, clip out little "v"s so when it's turned inside out there will be a smoother curve. It's possible a light weight would have be sufficient since the doubled fabric is fairly stiff. The top of the photo above shows the interfacing in the collar section. As soon as I do a trial run I'll let you know. The concern is whether the studs will be secure through all the layers. My current idea is to get the seam allowance, place the metal studs and then sew in the seam with a zipper foot. I will baste the sleeve in before dong the top stitching on the armhole. Depending on your pressure foot and the markings on the sole plate of your sewing machine you can determine what you'll use as a guide. I used the inside edge of the presser foot as a gauge for the 1/8 inch. I sewed less than a 1/4 inch seam on the edge, then one 1/2 inch in and another about 1/8 of an inch from the second row. The shoulder extensions, caplets, how ever you'd like to describe them, have five details.
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